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Injector Puller Instructions for Dodge Cummins Engine

Instructions for Tork Injector Removal Tools  CIP010 - CIP020 - CIP030

First, disconnect the negative cable from both batteries. Remove the Dodge® Cummins® turbo diesel name plate cover. Use a 19MM wrench. Using compressed air, blow off the top of the cylinder head to remove dirt and debris. Concentrate the air stream around the injectors, high pressure lines on the injection pump, and between the individual valve covers. Be sure to wear safety glasses.

Using a quality rust penetrant, spray around the base of the fuel injector retaining nuts. The best rust penetrant I've used is Kroil® by Kano Labs. While the rust penetrant is doing it's job, the rest of the engine can be prepped for the removal of the injectors.

Remove intake horn and dip stick mounting bolts with a 10MM socket (total of six bolts). Remove top rubber boot clamp with a 11MM deep socket. Gently lift the intake horn off to preserve the gasket.

Loosen the high pressure fuel line nuts on injectors and injection pump. 1989 to 93 - use a 16MM wrench. 1994 to 98 - use a 19MM wrench.

Between 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 valve covers (drivers side) there are injector line clamps secured to the intake cover (89 to 93 may be different). Remove the bolts with a 10MM wrench. Remove all the injector lines as a set and place in a clean area. Some trucks require disconnecting the air heater wires. Cover injection pump with a clean shop towel.

Remove 6 return line/fuel drain bolts from the injectors with a 10MM wrench. Also remove the return line clamp bolts by the number five valve cover and on fuel filter housing (12MM). Remove complete return line and place in a clean area. Be careful that the copper gaskets on the drain line stay with the tube.

Now, remove the injector retaining nuts. Using a 24MM or 15/16” box end wrench and an adjustable wrench on top of the injector, loosen and remove all 6 injector retaining nuts. I suggest that you not use a 15/16” deep socket on the nuts. If the injector body and nut are rusted together, and if you apply enough torque to the nut, you can destroy the injector ball and the indent groove in the head. Holding the top of the injector with an adjustable wrench will ensure that the injector does not turn, and no damage will occur. If a nut won't budge, reapply rust penetrant. On severely rusted assemblies, carefully pry out the retaining nut rubber seal with a seal pick and apply penetrant to the injector body.

Assemble the TORK TOOL injector puller onto the injector. 1989 to 93 injectors use the hardened washer and collar nut with the small hole in the center (12MM thread). Place the tube over the injector first, followed by the washer and nut. Put a small amount of grease between nut and washer. Using a box end wrench, tighten the nut and the injector will pop loose. Some injectors may have debris packed between the injector body and head. Remove puller and grab the flats of the injector with locking pliers and pull straight up.

Remove old injector copper washers. Clean injector bore of the cylinder head with a stainless steel brush before installation of new injectors. Be sure to use new copper gaskets and apply anti-seize to retaining nut threads.

Assembly is in reverse order.

Save the instructions and Cummins injector puller in the reclosable bag.